Dewalt 1956 MBF Radial Arm Saw Restoration

-Here It Is As Purchased-

-Original Factory Paint-

Original Front & Back Tables With Short Sacrificial Top.

Motor Was A Little Noisy.

Sanding Disc & Planer Head Included.

-Rip & Bevel Lock Knobs Missing-

-Here It Is After Restoration-

8 1/2", 60 Tooth, 5 Degree Negative Hook Blade.

3/4" NovaPly Particle Board Table With Pine Edging.

1/4" MDF Sacrificial Top With 4" Replaceable Insert At 90 Degree Crosscut.

Dust Elbow From A Gates 22006 Lower Radiator Hose.

Front Table On Three  (3) Unistruts On Factory Cleats.

Larger Back Table Mr. Sawdust Design.

Recommended Restoration Footnotes To Consider:

• Purchase "How To Master The Radial Saw" by W. Kunkel here: http://mrsawdust.com
• Become a member of the "Delphi Radial Arm Saw Discussion Forum" here: http://people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust

These were invaluable sources throughout the rebuild/restoration process.

See posts below for a step-by-step of this restoration.

Restoration Step-By-Step Part One:

Part One:

• Disassembly
• Clean-up & Paint
• Reassemble Major Components

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Disassembly

-Arm Being Cleaned-Up- 

-Arm Ways Were in Good Condition-

-Rollerhead, Yoke & Guard-

Base, Column, Column Base, Elevating Screw & Heat Gun!








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Cleanup & Paint

Premium Ace Brand Machine Grey Along With Grey Metal Primer On The Steel Components.

Paint Took A Long Time To Dry.

Self Etching Primer On Aluminum Components.

Masking Tape & Cotton For The Holes & Openings.

-Masking Tape & Cotton Removed-

-Waiting For The Guard To Dry-

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Reassemble Major Components

-Major Assemblies Back Together-

-Cranks, Miter Lock & Knobs Shined-Up-

I Should've Had The Column Replated!




























Rollerhead Ready For New Bearings From Wolfe Equipment.



Stay Tuned For Part Two...

Restoration Step-By-Step Part Two:

Part Two:

• Motor Installation
• Tables

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-Motor Installation-

-Ready For Installation-

-New Switch-

Relocated On/Off Switch To The Left Front Of The Main Frame.

I Had the Motor Checked-Out & New Bearings Installed By A Local Electric Motor Repair Shop.


They Did A Nice Job Cleaning, Polishing & Repainting The Motor Frame & Parts.

-New Power Cord Installed-

-Arbor Nut & Blade Washers Shined Up-

The Rip & Bevel Locking Pin Knobs Were Missing.

I Replaced Them with Black Knobs Available Locally.

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Tables

-Cleats Installed-

-Larger Back Board-

Mr. Sawdust Design For The Larger "Back Table."

Epoxied One 1/8" x 3/4" x 36" Flat Bar Into The Kerfs.

Titebond III For The NovaPly Particle Board.

Kerfs Cut Deep To Leave Room For Epoxy.

Flat Bar Spaced With Small Finish Nails (Heads Removed) Placed Into The Bottom Kerf Before Epoxy.

-200# Lead Shot-

Gravity Clamping The Assembly On My Unisaw Table.

The Finished Back Table Is Straight & Flat.

Unistruts Cut To 36" On A Milwaukee Chop Saw Using An Abrasive Blade.

The Are 3/4" In Height.

They're Heavy, Straight & Flat.

The Strut Nuts (3/8" Thread) Slip Into The Unistrut Channel And Are Held In Place By Spring Tension.

-Drilling The Table-

Yes, That's A 1930's Craftsman Drill Press

Made By Atlas Machine & Tool.

-Finished!-

-Sorry For The Clutter!-

Unistruts Drilled For The "Pass-Thru Bolts."

Strut Nuts Installed.

Waiting For The Table.

-Unistrut Table Spacers-

Table Installed Except For Two (2) Unistrut Spacers.

The Spacers Were Easy To Fab/Drill/Paint.

-Unistruts/Spacers & Front Table-

If You Look Close You Can See Both (Left & Right Side) Unistrut Spacers Installed Between The Table & Cleats.

Cleat Mounting Bolts Temporarily Set For Table Assembly.

  

-Main Table On Unistruts-

Smaller Back Table (Glued & Screwed) Isn't As Solid, Straight/Flat As The Mr. Sawdust Design.

Main Table Hold-Down Bolts Are Counterbored 1/8".

Sacrificial Top Will Be 1/4" MDF Sized For 1/16" Sawdust Relief At The Fence.

There'll Be A 4" Replaceable Insert At 90 Degree Crosscut.

This Completes The Step-By-Step Restoration.

Thanks For Looking.

CB